I personally LOVE painted wood floors. I am a very traditionalist at heart and even though my tastes have stepped up to the present... my heart will skip a beat when I see a painted foyer/entry floor. What better way to welcome everyone to your home than to have a first impression that says "I really do care about the details of my home."
Although it’s relatively uncommon to see painted wood floors today (however... they seem to be making their way back into the limelight), as clear-coated hardwood has become the preferred option for most homeowners, they were once a staple of interior design. From decorative patterns, some of which mimicked parquetry, to monochromatic schemes, painted wood floors were in widespread use in American homes by the late 1700s. Popular colors included white, yellow, red, and green. But it wasn’t just about aesthetics—paint also helped protect the wide-plank pine floors of the time.
Check out this great step by step instructional!
|1. Prep the Base|
To make the paint adhere better and the finish last longer, sand and clean the floor first. Coating the entire floor using the lighter of the two colors as a base coat creates a clean slate for laying out the pattern and acts as a primer for the darker pattern color.
Using a sanding sponge, gently rough up the floor finish and level any high spots from previous stain or filler. Wipe the floor clean with a damp sponge and allow it to dry thoroughly. Cover the space beneath doors with plastic to prevent dust from blowing in and ruining the wet finish.
2. Paint the Base CoatPaint the base color around the edges of the floor with a 2½-inch paintbrush. Using a paint roller, coat the entire field, starting opposite one door so that you paint yourself out of the room. Let the paint dry completely. If necessary, lightly sand the floor and apply a second coat. Let the paint dry overnight before laying out the pattern and applying the second color.
3. Measure and Mark the Pattern
Setting a checker pattern on a diagonal looks dynamic and makes the room appear bigger. But the pattern will look best if it ends in perfect half-square triangles at the most visible walls. So figure out which wall is least visible and start measuring on the opposite side of the room. Keep in mind that the painter's tape outlines the box you're painting, so it will fall on alternating sides of the pattern's lines from square to square.
Estimate the number of squares you want to fit across the center wall of the three most visible walls. Divide the length of the wall by the number of squares. With this measurement, mark the wall from corner to corner.
4. Make the
Find the center point between the first two marks and note the distance from the corner to the center. Using a framing square, draw a perpendicular reference line out from the point, making it the same length as the distance from the corner to the center point. Then connect the corner to the end of the reference line. This is the side of the first square.
5. Complete the Pattern
Using a straightedge, extend the line out into the room. Mark the entire line at intervals to match the length of the side of each pattern square. Using a framing square as a right-angle guide, complete the squares at each mark. Double-check your layout by making sure you connect back to the marks on the first wall.
6. Mask the Squares
With all the squares drawn, use painter's tape to X out the squares you don't intend to paint. Then tape around the outside edges of the unmarked squares.
7. Cut the Tape with a Putty Knife
Cut each piece of tape perfectly by tearing it against a putty knife: Hold the blade on the tape and rip away from the knife to execute a perfect cut and make sharp corners for each square.
8. Complete the Tape Outline
Seal the tape to the floor by pulling the putty-knife blade over the tape to remove air bubbles and prevent paint from bleeding underneath and onto the lighter-colored squares. Continue taping until all the unmarked squares are outlined.
Tip: Clean up pencil marks with a damp sponge instead of an eraser, which could damage the freshly painted base coat.
9. Paint the Pattern
The tape around each square is an excellent guide for painting, but an uneven wood floor is a difficult surface on which to tape. So to help keep paint from bleeding under the tape, cut in the edges of each square with a brush. You can speed up the finish with a mini roller.
Using a sanding sponge, lightly sand the squares to be painted and wipe them clean. Using a 2½-inch paintbrush, apply paint around the edge of the square. Start each stroke on the tape and pull it into the square so that the color doesn't push under the edge. Coat the entire perimeter of the square this way. While the edges are still wet, fill in the field using a mini roller. Roll the paint on in the same direction as the floorboards. Continue painting the squares in this manner until the floor is finished. Clean up any drips or mistakes by wiping them up with a damp rag while they're still wet.
10. Remove the Tape
Remove the tape before the paint dries so that it doesn't pull up any color with it. Peel the tape up and away from the paint at an angle to leave a clean edge.
11. Finish Coat the Floor
Porch and floor paint is very durable, but for high-traffic areas consider topping the floor with a coat of polyurethane. After the paint has dried for a full day, use a roller to apply the finish evenly across the floor. If you plan to add a second coat of paint, lightly sand the first coat before putting the second one down.
Tip: The higher the gloss on paint or polyurethane, the more durable it is. If you want the resilience of high gloss without the shine, put on a top coat of satin polyurethane to tone down the gloss.
I love painted floors. Would you like to see a little more inspiration? - here's a little something for everyone.